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At The Dapper Assembly, the question we're asked more than any other is: "What colour Saphir should I use on my chestnut RM Williams boots?" Having cared for my own pair of chestnut RMWs for years, here's the honest answer — the best shade for your boots, plus the simple routine that keeps them looking their best.

Which Saphir colour for chestnut RM Williams boots?

RM Williams "Chestnut" is a warm, mid reddish-brown — but it varies from boot to boot and deepens with age. Based on years of matching them in-store, here's where to start:

  • Havana / Tobacco (34) — the closest match for RM Williams chestnut and our go-to recommendation. A rich tobacco brown that matches and gently deepens the classic chestnut tone.
  • Cognac (10) — a lighter alternative with warm yellow-and-chestnut tones. Choose it if your chestnut is on the lighter or more golden side, or to lift a slightly faded pair.
  • Mahogany (09) — if your chestnut leans red, this preserves that reddish hue.
  • Light Brown (03) — to brighten a faded pair, or for the lighter RM Williams "Tan Bark".

The golden rule: match the same shade or one slightly lighter — never darker. Pigmented cream builds with each coat, so a lighter shade deepens to a perfect match over time, while too-dark is hard to undo. Unsure? Reach for Neutral (02), which nourishes and shines without adding colour.

Not sure which shade is yours? Open the chat concierge (bottom-right on any page) and send a photo of your boots — we'll match the colour for you. Or email info@thedapperassembly.com.au.

Cream or wax — which should you use?

Both, ideally, and in this order:

  • Pommadier Crème 1925 (cream) in Havana/Tobacco nourishes the leather and restores colour, leaving a soft, natural sheen — the everyday choice for a faded or dry pair.
  • Pâte de Luxe (wax) layers over the cream to add protection and a higher shine — ideal on the toe and heel if you like a glossier finish.

A simple care routine for RM Williams boots

  1. Clean. Brush off dust with a horsehair brush. For marks or old product, wipe gently with Reno'Mat cleaner first.
  2. Condition. Work in a little Saphir Renovateur and leave 15–30 minutes to absorb. This keeps the leather supple and prevents cracking — a little goes a long way.
  3. Colour & nourish. Apply your chosen shade of Pommadier Crème — Havana/Tobacco for most chestnut boots — in thin, even coats; let it dry, then buff with a clean brush.
  4. Shine & protect (optional). Add a thin layer of Pâte de Luxe wax on the toe and heel, then buff to your preferred shine.
  5. Rest & store. Use cedar shoe trees between wears to hold shape and wick moisture, and rotate pairs so the leather can recover.

Your questions, answered

Can Saphir be used on RM Williams boots? Yes. RM Williams chestnut boots are crafted from a single piece of supple, chrome-tanned yearling/calf leather, and Saphir's silicone-free creams and waxes are made for exactly this kind of smooth calfskin.

Cream or wax if I only buy one? Choose the cream in Havana/Tobacco — it restores both colour and condition. Add wax later if you want more shine.

What about the lighter "Tan Bark" RMWs? Go with Light Brown (03).

Look after them and a good pair of chestnut RM Williams will only look better with every year. Questions? The concierge is on every page, or email us a photo and we'll point you to the right shade.

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